The dirt road down the peninsula demands a special set of skills. Adeptly weaving between random remnants of pavement from a bygone era and orange puddles that looked like giant carrot soup bowls, James, our excellent driver, got us there safely in a little over an hour.
Entering the No.2 River Development Association has a familiar forest campground feel, except for the unmistakable smell of saline air. Beyond the parking lot, powerful waves pummeled a white sand slope dotted with blue umbrellas and a row of traditional huts.
Rain clouds were not lifting, so we decided to go on a boat trip up the eponymous river. Since we left at low tide, some of us walked beside the wooden boat to allow it to glide over the shallow waters.
This is how the bay looked when we left.
And this is how we looked as we set out on our river adventure. Joseph helped push us out, and then Alfred, our guide and captain, began powering us upstream with a single paddle.
Mangroves encrusted with oysters lined the river all the way to a small waterfall below a fresh water pool, courtesy of a nearby dam. Alfred said local people use the natural basin to do laundry. On our way up, we crossed two women who were digging for oysters with their feet while balancing a bucket on their head. As their toes surveyed the bottom, their hips swayed as if dancing. We floated past them, exchanging inquisitive smiles.
Alfred explained that the river is called No. 2 because in colonial times, quicksand engulfed two British garrisons stationed here. Whether this explanation is fact or legend, I don’t know.
On the return trip, we saw a monkey trying to catch tiny crabs and silvery flying fish skipping over the surface. We picked up three teenagers, who were happy to get a lift back from their oyster expedition. The women were gone.
After three hours on the river, the tide had started to come in. See the difference.
By then, there was only 20 minutes left to enjoy the ocean as we didn’t want to make James drive in the dark. We made it to Freetown within a half hour of sundown. I can’t wait to go back.
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