November 24, 2008

Fishing Off Lumley Beach

Freetown sits on the northern edge of the peninsula, but a short ride around the base of the hills leads to a 4-km stretch of white sand and rolling waves. Lumley Beach faces west, which makes it a therapeutic spot to watch the sunset after a day in the humid and noisy bustle of the city centre.

The idea of an open-access beach devoid of exclusive resorts is an appealing one, especially in a place where relatively few can afford the 30-minute ride to the more secluded beaches down the coast. But unfortunately, the city council’s limited resources prevent it from enforcing proper sanitation measures. Regular garbage pick-up, the building and maintenance of public toilets, and the prohibition of dumping from foreign cargo ships all remain on the official “to do” list.

Traditional fishing is one of the lower-impact activities taking place on the beach, right next to swimmers, and under the intrigued eyes of mostly white onlookers. The work is very physical. It requires all involved to synchronize their efforts, pulling at the nets in successive motions. Timing the crew's movements with the incoming waves, a man calls out the rhythm.





When the nets are in, it is time for the wooden boats to come back to shore.



Again, nothing happens unless everybody leans into the task.



Women will now leave the beach for the market with buckets of fish on their heads. Tomorrow, they will start all over again.