The number of churches and ministries and mosques in Freetown is beyond belief – literally. Banners inviting followers and new converts to faith conferences and meetings and celebrations with fiery sermons by charismatic preachers are plastered on walls and strung up at every roundabout, or turntable as they are called here.
Estimates vary as to the prevalence of SL’s major religions. According to some reports, there are six Muslims for each Christian. Others indicate that indigenous beliefs and practices guide almost half the population. It is impossible, and arguably pointless, to try to sort it all out as most people tend to adapt and integrate traditional teachings and institutionalized dogma in ways that make sense to them. Call it the great melting pot in the sky.
As far as declared Christian groups are concerned, a myriad denominations have established centres in Freetown and in the provinces. They run schools and health clinics, organize vocational training workshops for unemployed youths, operate radio stations, and shepard a number of other faith-based initiatives.
In general, they seem to offer hope, which is nothing to look down on in a place where close to 70% live below the poverty line, and where each woman on average gives birth to six children. But churches seem to be sending mixed messages. I was recently implored by an educated male friend to rethink my decision not to have children, even though I am 40 and not in a relationship with a man. In a casual conversation with a stranger, a colleague mentioned having no kids. She was immediately reminded that ‘the Bible says you must procreate.’
From a societal standpoint, with life expectancy at 41, encouraging women to keep having children is counter-productive. When parents die, who will feed them and put them through school? It is also dangerous: in SL, women who go through eight or more pregnancies are 1,250 times more likely to die in childbirth than British mothers bearing their eighth child.
But the churches keep proselytizing and people seem to take comfort in their generous counseling. I met a woman last night who said she used to be a depressed chain-smoker and a heavy drinker. Last year, she found God and he helped her get rid of all her nasty habits. She now goes to church every week and listens to the Believers Broadcasting Network (BBN), a Christian radio station. Next to her, another woman, beer and cigarette in hand, told me she was resisting all attempts to make her change her ways. They remain best friends.
Back on the streets of Freetown, almost every poda-poda (mini bus) has a slogan praising God or Allah painted on it. Vendors sit behind their displays of framed 'photos' of Jesus, who looks rather chipper considering the heat. Overhead, while some banners appeal to a sense of self-empowerment...
Others use more graphic and apocalyptic language to tempt unsuspecting pedestrians...
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