Tiwai Island

Tiwai Island is a wildlife sanctuary on the Moa river, in the south-east of SL. Located between the Gola West Forest Reserve and the South Kambui Forest Reserve, it is home to 11 species of primates, including the endangered colobus and Diana monkeys. Pygmy hippopotamus are also known to live on and around the island, but they rarely allow themselves to be seen by visitors. A total of 135 wild bird species have also been identified.

Tiwai is SL's only community conservation program. Surrounding the 12 Km2 island are 8 communities that have a stake in the initiative's success. Since the reserve reopened after the civil war, villagers, especially the kids, are used to seeing SUVs and motorbikes dropping off white guests in hiking boots and backpacks with cameras at the ready.



Catherine Kerr (left in photo), a VSO working with the Environmental Foundation for Africa, spent several months on Tiwai, hiring and training staff, assisting with the logistics of food preparation, book-keeping, inventory, transportation, and safety measures. Most importantly, she has been the driving force behind an outreach program that sought to consult the local communities on Tiwai's potential for environmentally sound development.



To generate a small income for the communities and the sanctuary, a villager makes and sells pretty straw purses and hats. We modeled the merchandise before buying a number of items.



Spending a night on the island, sleeping in tents set up on concrete platforms, visitors fall asleep to the sound of crickets and other unidentified creatures, and wake up to an agitated forest filled with chirping birds.



A two-hour walk under the busy canopy turns into an exciting search for primate movements and high-pitched conversations. It is much easier to hear them than to spot them as they dance between tree tops. On the ground, interesting finds such as sleeping butterflies and spice plants dot the path.





Taking a trip up the river in a traditional canoe is another fun way to discover the island's flora, colourful birds, and artisanal fish traps.





As our day of exploration comes to an end, we can't resist relaxing in small hammocks while the sun sets in the background.



At dinner, when solar-powered bulbs are turned on, a battalion of moths materialize to mate in the light, eventually shedding their tired wings. There are so many of them that the friendly staff light candles and catch them by hand and drown them in a bowl so visitors can eat in peace.





After another night on the island, it's time to begin the long journey back to Freetown, leaving Tiwai's communities to their daily activities.